Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Lacquer Dial Review: It’s the hottest-looking modern-day Speedy!

Good morning, and happy Wristwatch Wednesday. Today, we’re thrilled to bring you a review of what might be one of the very first white-dial Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch pieces in the wild. With a bit of luck and some well-timed persuasion, we managed to acquire this stunning piece. Let’s dive right into the review! The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial, reference 310.30.42.50.04.001, introduces a sleek, modern aesthetic to a timepiece steeped in history. Known for its role in the Apollo missions, the Speedmaster has earned its place as the “Moonwatch,” a title symbolizing precision, reliability, and timeless design. This latest release keeps the core elements intact but brings a fresh, contemporary look through a white lacquer dial—a bold step away from the more traditional black dial. It’s a new chapter for collectors and enthusiasts alike.

Designer: Omega

Case Design and Fit

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, with its white lacquer dial, retains the iconic asymmetrical case design that has defined the Speedmaster line for decades. Measuring 42mm in diameter, 13.2mm in height, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug, the watch balances presence and wearability. The case’s dimensions allow it to sit comfortably on a wide range of wrist sizes, making it accessible to many enthusiasts.

The case features a combination of brushed and polished finishes that highlight its distinctive shape. The signature twisted “lyre” lugs add a touch of elegance and help the watch hug the wrist, enhancing comfort during extended wear. The polished bevels along the case sides create a visual contrast that accentuates the Speedmaster’s sporty yet refined character. The pushers and crown are well-proportioned and easy to operate, with the asymmetrical case design providing subtle protection without compromising functionality.

Despite its robust construction, the watch wears surprisingly slim thanks to its curved caseback and thoughtful ergonomics. The sapphire crystal caseback allows for an unobstructed view of the Caliber 3861 movement, adding depth to the overall design while maintaining the watch’s water resistance rating of 50 meters. This attention to detail in the case design and finishing exemplifies Omega’s commitment to both form and function, resulting in a timepiece that is as pleasing to wear as it is to admire.

Dial: Clean and Sexy as hell!

Omega rarely ventures into white-dial territory with its professional Speedmastsers, making this variant noteworthy in the collection. The glossy white lacquer surface adds a sense of luxury without losing any tool-watch functionality that the Speedmaster is known for. Measuring 42mm, the dial’s crisp, bright finish enhances legibility, allowing the black hands and markers to pop against the white background, ensuring it remains functional even under various lighting conditions.

The dial features a stepped design, a hallmark of the Speedmaster series. This multi-level construction gives the watch depth, ensuring that the three subdials—small seconds, 30-minute counter, and 12-hour counter—are recessed but still highly legible. Omega has opted for circular graining (also known as an azurage finish) on the subdials, adding texture and subtly contrasting the main dial’s semi-glossy, white lacquered finish. This textural difference helps maintain depth while providing a sophisticated aesthetic. The lacquered finish gives the dial a softer, more luxurious feel compared to the tool-like nature of the black dial version. Yet, it still delivers the precision-focused look that Omega fans appreciate. This textural difference is crucial in maintaining the Speedmaster’s instrumental, precision-focused aesthetic.

One of the most striking features is the red ‘Speedmaster’ script and the red-tipped chronograph hand. This vibrant touch brings a visual break from the monochrome palette and nods to Omega’s history in motorsports and space exploration. These small details connect to the past while maintaining the overall modern look of the watch.

Using Super-LumiNova on the black PVD-coated hands and hour markers ensures the watch is just as functional at night as it is during the day. The luminous coating glows bright green in low light, ensuring that time can be read easily, even in total darkness. The hour markers and hands are evenly coated, providing a crisp, uniform glow. The precision of the lume application ensures that, even in pitch-black conditions, the dial remains clean and legible, with the luminous strips guiding your eyes effortlessly across the dial.

Bezel: A Classic Touch with Modern Appeal

Omega has retained the classic tachymeter bezel for this model, a feature that has become synonymous with the Speedmaster line. The black anodized aluminum bezel contrasts sharply with the white dial, giving the watch a sportier, more contemporary appearance. This bezel adds visual depth to the design and remains highly functional, with the tachymeter scale allowing for speed calculations over a fixed distance.

One of the more charming details on the bezel is the “Dot Over 90” marking. This vintage feature was used on early Speedmaster models from the 1960s, particularly on references worn during the Apollo missions, such as the 105.012 and 145.012. Omega’s decision to include this detail on the new white dial Speedmaster directly connects to the watch’s heritage and iconic past. Collectors who value historical accuracy will appreciate Omega’s commitment to honoring the Speedmaster’s legacy. The “Dot Over 90” marking is a vintage feature found on some early Speedmaster models, especially those worn during the Apollo missions like the 105.012 and 145.012. While it wasn’t present on every Speedmaster from the 1960s, its inclusion on this model ties the modern watch directly to its historically significant predecessors, highlighting Omega’s dedication to honoring the Speedmaster’s legacy. The dot placement varied across models, adding a unique aspect to each reference.

Though many of Omega’s newer models feature ceramic bezels for added scratch resistance, this version opts for an anodized aluminum bezel. While ceramic is more durable, aluminum offers a matte finish that aligns better with the Speedmaster’s tool-watch ethos. The matte finish reduces glare and reflections, which can be useful during active use, staying true to the Moonwatch’s original purpose as a precise, reliable instrument.

Movement: Reliable and Advanced

At the heart of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial is the Caliber 3861, a significant leap forward from previous versions of the Moonwatch. This manually-wound chronograph movement incorporates Omega’s proprietary Co-Axial escapement, designed to reduce friction, improve accuracy, and enhance the movement’s longevity. The Co-Axial escapement represents Omega’s commitment to pushing horological boundaries while staying true to traditional craftsmanship.

The movement is Master Chronometer certified, having passed the rigorous tests set by METAS (the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology). What this means for the wearer is guaranteed precision, with the movement operating within +0 to +5 seconds per day. The Master Chronometer certification also ensures that the watch is highly resistant to magnetic fields, withstanding exposure to up to 15,000 gauss, making it well-suited to the modern, tech-filled environment where magnetic interference is a constant.

With a 50-hour power reserve, the Caliber 3861 offers plenty of time between windings, though some collectors might have preferred a longer reserve, especially for a manual-wind timepiece. However, the 3861 remains one of Omega’s most reliable and robust movements, blending traditional manual-winding charm with modern resilience.

One of the most appreciated aspects of this model is the sapphire caseback, which allows for a full view of the movement in action. The rhodium-plated bridges and Geneva waves add an element of beauty to the mechanical heart of the watch, making it as much a work of art as it is a precision tool. Collectors will undoubtedly appreciate this touch, as the transparent caseback provides an intimate look into Omega’s meticulous attention to detail.

Practicality and Wearability: Built for Everyday Use

Despite its luxurious design, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial remains a practical timepiece for everyday wear. Its 42mm stainless steel case perfectly balances presence and wearability, ensuring it feels substantial on the wrist without overly bulky. The case’s brushed and polished finishes give it a refined look, making it suitable for casual and formal settings.

The bracelet, too, offers a high level of comfort, featuring a five-link stainless steel construction that sits smoothly on the wrist. Omega’s extension system within the clasp allows for easy adjustments, ensuring a snug fit even as wrist size fluctuates throughout the day. Whether you’re wearing it for extended periods or switching between different activities, the Speedmaster maintains its comfort without sacrificing its aesthetic.

For those who enjoy chronograph functionality, the pushers are responsive and easy to operate. Positioned at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock, the pushers allow for seamless operation of the chronograph, making it simple to time events with precision. The design of the pushers ensures that they don’t protrude too much, keeping the overall case profile sleek.

The white lacquer dial ensures excellent readability in various lighting conditions, whether in bright sunlight or in a dimly lit room. The use of Super-LumiNova ensures legibility in low light, while the bright contrast of the white dial and black markers keeps the display sharp and clear.

Final thoughts

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional White Dial is a brilliant evolution of a legendary design. Its modern aesthetic and the movement’s technical advancements make it a compelling choice for anyone looking to own a piece of horological history with a contemporary twist. Whether you’re a long-time Speedmaster enthusiast or a newcomer to Omega, this model offers something unique for every watch lover.