September brought a thrilling wave of watch releases, offering something special for every enthusiast. Whether you’re into the technical brilliance of high-end complications or appreciate a well-designed everyday watch, this month’s lineup had it all. From timeless elegance to rugged tool watches, each release reflects the passion and craftsmanship that go into making these intricate timepieces.
For those drawn to heritage and tradition, the latest reimaginings of iconic designs will resonate deeply. If you’re after modern innovations or bold, eye-catching styles, this month’s releases showcase what makes watchmaking such a dynamic and evolving field. Every watch tells a story, and whether you’re an avid collector or someone searching for the perfect piece, these standout timepieces offer something for every personality and preference.
Let’s take a closer look at the 10 most exciting watches of September 2024.
1. Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Urushi GMT
Seiko once again captivated collectors with the release of its Presage Urushi GMT. The watch’s 42mm stainless steel case houses the 6R54 calibre, allowing simultaneous tracking of two time zones. It’s the first time Seiko’s Presage line features a GMT complication. The Urushi lacquer dial, created through a centuries-old Japanese technique, offers a distinct aesthetic that reflects Seiko’s cultural heritage. Each dial is unique, with the hand-painted lacquer producing subtle differences in texture and color.
The Seiko Presage GMT Urushi Lacquer Dial SPB447
Why is it noteworthy?
This timepiece blends Seiko’s technical innovation with deep-rooted Japanese artistry. The Urushi lacquer dial, hand-applied by skilled artisans, makes each watch a one-of-a-kind masterpiece. Combined with the GMT function, it caters to travel needs and appreciation for craftsmanship.
In-house calibre 6R54
What we like:
- The handcrafted Urushi lacquer dial offers unmatched depth and individuality.
- The GMT complication provides practical functionality for travelers.
What we dislike:
- The 72-hour power reserve, though solid, could be longer for frequent travelers.
- The traditional design may not appeal to those seeking modern aesthetics.
2. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute
Jaeger-LeCoultre expands its Reverso Tribute collection with three exciting novelties this September. First, a brand-new mid-size model joins the lineup, offering dimensions that closely reflect the original 1931 Reverso design. This Monoface variant has a blue sunburst lacquer and a silver opaline dial, with a minimalist approach highlighting its Art Deco heritage. The Duoface version, now in luxurious 18k pink gold, offers a secondary dial for a second-time zone, while the Reverso Tribute Tourbillon makes its debut in a steel case, combining Jaeger-LeCoultre’s iconic design with the complexity of a tourbillon.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon in steel
Why is it noteworthy?
Introducing a mid-size model is a significant move for Jaeger-LeCoultre, catering to those seeking smaller, gender-neutral dimensions in an era where compact, vintage-inspired designs are gaining popularity. The new Duoface in pink gold adds a level of luxury, while the steel-cased Tourbillon brings haute horlogerie to a more understated level, making it a high-end daily wear option for those who appreciate functionality and elegance.
What we like:
- The new mid-size Monoface feels like a modern return to the roots of the Reverso, perfectly channeling the 1931 design.
- The pink gold Duoface offers a secondary dial and elegant finishing, making it versatile for any occasion.
- The Reverso Tribute Tourbillon in steel combines technical mastery with a subtle design, perfect for those seeking a tourbillon without the flash of precious metals.
What we dislike:
- The smaller case size of the mid-size Monoface might feel too diminutive for some modern wearers.
- While luxurious, the pink gold Duoface has a hefty price tag, making it less accessible to many.
- The Tourbillon’s technical complexity may not appeal to those who prefer simpler movements.
3. Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs PAM01518
The Panerai Navy SEALs Submersible is designed for adventurers. With a 47mm titanium case, this watch is built for rugged use. Its ceramic rotating bezel and 300-meter water resistance make it an ideal dive companion, while its P.9010 automatic movement delivers a solid 72-hour power reserve. Engravings on the case back honor the Navy SEALs, adding a unique connection to the military.
Why is it noteworthy?
This watch combines Panerai’s signature oversized aesthetic with professional-grade diving capabilities. The military-grade durability and connection to the Navy SEALs make it a standout for those who need function over form.
What we like:
- The 300-meter water resistance makes it a robust option for professional divers.
- Titanium keeps the watch lightweight despite its large size, enhancing comfort.
What we dislike:
- The 47mm case may feel overwhelming on the wrist.
- The military-focused design limits its versatility for formal occasions.
4. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI
Hublot’s Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI blends cutting-edge horology with a strong conservation message. The 42mm micro-blasted black ceramic case houses a skeletonized tourbillon movement, while the bold camo-green strap adds a rugged edge. A portion of proceeds from each watch sold goes toward wildlife conservation efforts, aligning with Save Our Rhinos Africa and India (SORAI).
Why is it noteworthy?
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI
The skeletonized dial exposes the intricate tourbillon mechanism, showcasing Hublot’s expertise in avant-garde watchmaking. Additionally, the conservation partnership provides an ethical aspect to the timepiece, making it as meaningful as it is luxurious.
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon SORAI
What we like:
- The exposed tourbillon creates a mesmerizing focal point for watch enthusiasts.
- Supporting conservation efforts adds depth beyond its luxury status.
What we dislike:
- The bold, avant-garde design may be too polarizing for some collectors.
- Limited edition availability makes it challenging to acquire.
5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT marries the iconic Royal Oak design with modern horological advancements. The 44mm titanium case houses a split-second chronograph and GMT complication, providing multiple functions within the octagonal bezel. The skeletonized dial maintains the futuristic aesthetic of the Concept line.
Why is it noteworthy?
The watch features a split-second chronograph that allows the timing of two separate events and the practicality of a GMT function. Its titanium construction ensures that it remains lightweight despite its technical complexity.
What we like:
- The GMT and split-second chronograph offer great utility for those on the move.
- The use of titanium keeps the large case light and comfortable for everyday wear.
What we dislike:
- The octagonal case design may be too aggressive for those preferring classic shapes.
- Its steep price makes it inaccessible to a wider audience.
6. Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Reinterpretation 300m
Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Reinterpretation | Ref: SLA079J1 (black), SLA077J1 (white)
Seiko’s Prospex 1968 Diver’s Reinterpretation 300m draws inspiration from its classic dive watch but adds modern-day features. The 44mm stainless steel case offers 300-meter water resistance, and its unidirectional rotating bezel ensures reliable underwater performance. Inside, the 8L35 automatic movement provides precision and durability.
Why is it noteworthy?
This model pays tribute to Seiko’s history in diving watches while incorporating modern materials and performance upgrades. It balances heritage with innovation, making it ideal for professional divers and collectors alike.
What we like:
- The 300-meter water resistance makes it reliable for serious diving.
- The bold, legible dial and bezel enhance usability under harsh conditions.
What we dislike:
- Its larger 44mm case may feel cumbersome for everyday wear.
- The practical design might lack the refinement some collectors seek in high-end watches.
7. Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph Rainbow
Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph Rainbow
Louis Erard adds a burst of color to its chronograph collection with the 2300 Sport Chronograph Rainbow. Housed in a 44mm stainless steel case, the watch features rainbow-colored indices against a black dial. The dual-register chronograph runs on the reliable Valjoux/ETA 7750 automatic movement, ensuring durability and precision.
Why is it noteworthy?
The rainbow-colored indices bring a playful element to the otherwise classic chronograph design. Louis Erard has created a striking balance between the watch’s technical prowess and its bold, modern aesthetic.
What we like:
- The vibrant rainbow indices add character without compromising on functionality.
- The Valjoux/ETA 7750 movement guarantees accuracy and durability.
What we dislike:
- The 44mm case size may be too large for some wearers.
- The colorful design might not suit everyone’s taste, particularly those who prefer understated watches.
8. Blancpain Air Command Camouflage Green
Blancpain’s Air Command Camouflage Green is a vintage-inspired pilot’s watch with a modern twist. The 42.5mm case is fitted with a flyback chronograph for efficient timekeeping, while the camouflage-green dial adds a rugged, military-inspired look. The in-house F388B automatic movement delivers a high-frequency chronograph performance.
Why is it noteworthy?
Blancpain Air Command Camouflage Green
Blancpain blends its aviation heritage with modern chronograph technology, making this watch a collector’s item for those who appreciate vintage military design with contemporary functionality.
What we like:
- The flyback chronograph enhances usability for frequent timers.
- The camo-green dial and luminescent markers ensure legibility in any condition.
What we dislike:
- The military styling may not appeal to those seeking a more versatile watch.
- Limited availability can make it challenging to acquire.
9. Christopher Ward C65 Desk Diver Limited Edition
Christopher Ward C65 Desk Diver Limited Edition
Christopher Ward’s C65 Desk Diver takes a whimsical approach to the dive watch category, offering a playful design for office workers. The 41mm stainless steel case provides 200-meter water resistance, while the Sellita SW200-1 movement ensures reliable performance. Its playful Easter eggs on the dial and bezel add a humorous twist.
Why is it noteworthy?
The C65 Desk Diver is a lighthearted interpretation of the traditional dive watch, designed for the urban environment rather than deep-sea expeditions. It offers a unique blend of humor and practicality, making it a fun addition to any collection.
What we like:
- The playful design adds personality while maintaining full dive watch functionality.
- The 200-meter water resistance ensures that, despite its humor, it’s still capable underwater.
What we dislike:
- Some may find the playful design elements detract from its seriousness as a tool watch.
- The concept may not resonate with those who prefer traditional or minimalist designs.
10. TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green
TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green
TAG Heuer reinvigorates its legendary Monaco line with the Racing Green edition, paying homage to British racing history. The 39mm square case remains iconic, housing the dependable TAG Heuer Calibre 11 automatic movement, recognizable for its left-hand crown placement and chronograph functionality. The deep green dial is complemented by two chronograph subdials, adding visual depth and a sense of purpose to the design. This bold color choice is complemented by a matching green leather rally strap, making the watch a standout for those who appreciate heritage and style.
Why is it noteworthy?
The Monaco Racing Green brings a fresh, vibrant twist to one of TAG Heuer’s most iconic models. The British racing green dial offers a nod to motorsport history, adding a new dimension to the iconic square design celebrated for decades. With its rich color palette and excellent functionality, this model is a fitting tribute to TAG Heuer’s automotive partnerships and its heritage in precision timekeeping.
What we like:
- The striking green dial offers a unique and modern update to the classic Monaco aesthetic.
- The Calibre 11 movement ensures reliable chronograph performance, and a vintage-inspired left-hand crown adds a touch of nostalgia.
What we dislike:
- The square case design may not appeal to everyone, especially those who prefer more traditional round shapes.
- As a limited edition, the Racing Green may be hard to acquire, with high demand driving up prices for collectors.
